All of the hardwood floors in our house were painted. I think it is because it was originally a summer house and it was probably less expensive and easier to have the floors painted than to have them finished.

We have sanded floor after floor in our house. If I never see a floor sander again, I will not be upset.

When we got to two of the chidlren’s bedrooms we thought, why not just repaint them? It would add a little character. And, okay I will admit it, it would be much, much easier.

The bedroom above already had a grey colored floor, the same color that is used on the exterior porches of the house. And so I decided to just go with that color and see how it loooked. I have to say that I really like it.

My younger son’s bedroom we are going to go with a barn red color.

The first thing that you need to do before you begin to paint to scrub the floor. I recommend using a TSP solution to cut the grease, grime, and dirt that might be on the floor. (*If your floor has polyurethane on it you will need to sand the floor in order for the paint to adhere properly. Unless you are doing the floor painting as a temporary measure.)

After the floor dries crawl around and look for any paint splatters or areas that might need a light sanding. Those little imperfections will show through the paint. You might think that paint will cover it all, but trust me on this, it will not.

Once you have done that, give the floor a final vacuum.

It might seem like this is a lot of prep work, but really the prep work is the most important part of any project.

I chose a porch and floor paint by Benjamin Moore. I have used this paint for exterior applications before and figured that if it can withstand the outside elements that it can hold up to the abuse of little boys.

I first cut in around the room with a brush and then roll the rest of the floor with a roller attached to an extension pole. Let the floor dry for 48 hours. You might be able to get away with letting it dry for less time. Or you could be like me and walk into the room and leave your footprints. It is much better to be safe than sorry. After 48 hours, roll on a second coat of paint.

Depending on the coverage you get, you may want to put on a third coat.

If you want to add some more personalization to your floor, you can stencil around the edges, paint checkerboards. or any other design that strikes your fancy. I painted a rug on the porch floor of my old house. It held up for years with no additional protection, until I finally painted over it.

Installing an apron front sink is not easy.

Cutting into your brand new, expensive cabinets is not for the faint of heart. Or the inexperienced. Though that did not stop us.

We learned that it also depends on the sink you buy. The first sink that we had was a Belle Foret. It was pretty much a rectangle. The outside was completely finished and smooth. My three year old saw it and asked if it was a little tub for him.

That sink ended up being too big for the sink cabinet. The lesson here is to remeasure everything even when you have “professionals” doing things for you.

We returned that sink and bought a Kohler. Not because we wanted a Kohler sink, but because it was the only sink that was in stock, in the size that we needed, in the entire tri-state area.

Oh, Kohler farmhouse sink how we hate you and your rounded and beveled edges. Sure you look pretty now that you are installed, but cutting the hole to fit the sink was a long laborious process.

The inside of the cabinet had to be fitted with wood braces and plywood to support the sink. The front of the cabinet had to be carefully sawn away. Swearing, while not technically required, seemed to be neccessary more than usual in this diy project.

All of us who own old houses know about unlevel floors. The kind that if you spill something it immediately starts a river running to a certain corner of the room,faster than you can run for the paper towels One of my kids asked once what would happen if you spilled something on a level floor. They want to know if it would just stay there.

Our kitchen floor was very unlevel. It was also made worse my the previous owners who tried to level it, but failed miserably and installed vinyl flooring over a floor so unlevel that it undulated.

We tore off the vinyl. The plywood under the vinyl. The linoleum under the plywood. And then the plywood that was under the linoleum.

And then we wept, because it didn’t look any better and we had no idea what to do next.

Luckily we had a contractor who was working on our house and felt like giving us some much needed advice.

We found the high point in the floor and using a long level attached firring strips to the floor. That part was not that revolutionary to us, we had done things like that before. The problem we usually faced was the spaced between the firring strips left too much bounce in the subfloor, especially if you planned on tiling.

Our contractor, and the flooring expert who was out at our house to refinish some hardwood floor agreed, told us to use the thinset mortar to fill in the spaces between the firring strips. For whatever reason neither of them are thrilled with the stuff that is sold as leveling compound. I am not really sure if there is a problem with the leveling compound perse, or if they just prefer their old school methods.

Once this dried we laid our plywood subfloor right on top.

I don’t think that we have another floor in our home that is as level or sturdy.